Stories

Cushendall

In the early 1700s, the village of Cushendall belonged to the Hollow Sword Blade Company, which used a German process of hollow grinding to make lighter, more easily handled swords. The company employed German swordsmiths. The Hollow Sword Company itself failed but one of the swordsmith's later formed the Mohll Sword Company which was eventually taken over by the Wilkinson Sword Company.

 
The Curfew Tower

The Curfew Tower is a centrepiece of the village.  It was  built in 1817 as a folly complete with a dungeon by Francis Turnly. The design was inspired by the towers he had seen along the Great Wall of China while working there for the East India Company. The windows were also designed to allow the pouring of boiling fluid on any attacker below. A unique drinking fountain set into one side of the tower allows a flow of water to drop to a lower receptacle, allowing a person and a pet to drink at the same time. 
The Curfew Tower was bought in 1995 by Bill Drummond of the pop group KLF. He and fellow band member Jim Cauty are also known for the famous burning of one million pounds on Jura. 

Today the tower is used as an artist residency through a trust body called 'In You We Trust'. 

Source: Art Ward, Causeway Coastal Route

Layd Old Church

Layd Old Church  is situated a short distance out of the village - if you are walking, follow the Shore Road to the beach, where a cliff path leads to the ruin and graveyard, set in a steep-sided valley beside a stream. The site itself dates back to early Christianity. Layd is one of the burial sites for the MacDonnell clan and you will find many of the family graves here.
Inside the gateway to Layd Church, there is a standing stone with a hole through a circular top. These stones can be found throughout Ireland and are associated with many rituals and beliefs.
One custom was for making solemn oath, this was done by two people joining hands through the stone. Marriages ceremonies are known to be performed through hole stones right up to the present day. Some suggest the introduction of the wedding ring replaced this custom in the Christian faith.  Pregnant women would pass clothes through the hole to bring an easy childbirth.
Source: Art Ward, Causeway Coastal Route

Tievebulliagh Mountain

Tievebulliagh Mountain is home to the prehistoric quarry of porcellanite, a stone sought after by early settlers to hone polished axes.
 

Tiveragh Fairy Hill

Tiveragh is a unique shaped hill which looks like a camel's hump.  In geological terms it is the remains of a volcanic plug but in mythology, it is something else. Tiveragh is known as ‘the fairy hill.’ One side is pasture land for sheep while the other side is rough ground. It is said that the hill is inhabited by both good and bad fairies who live inside the hill. Tiveragh has a ‘fairy tree’ halfway up the slope of the good side and nobody would dare think about cutting it down for fear of what would happen to them. According to local folklore, the fairies, or ‘wee folk' occasionally make an appearance around the tree, especially around Halloween. It is also said that the bad fairies have been known to lure the unsuspecting visitor into the hill by playing enchanting music, never more to be seen.

On Tiveragh Hill near Cushendall: I heard a commotion behind the wall: I stopped and I looked over, and boys o’ boys! : Now what do you think was makin’ the noise? - T’was a hurley match and I may choke: It was two wee teams of the fairy folk: That was rippin’ and tearing and weltin’ away: In the light of the moon that was bright as the day. - And their playing pitch was hardly as big: As my Uncle Barney’s potato rig: And me there watchin’ them puck and clout; At the back o’ the wall with my eyes stuck out. - When all at once, like the squeal of a hare: A wee voice shouted ‘Who’s that up there?’ : And a bit of a thing about nine inches tall: Came climbing up to the top of the wall. - And he stood there, he stood pot-size: With his two wee fingers up at my eyes: And it’s God’s own truth that I’m speaking mind: ye Get out o’that, says he, or I’ll blind thee! - Aye that’s what he said, I’ll blind ye!, says he. : And by jing what he said was enough for me: Did I run? Aye surely, I didn’t miss: And I haven’t seen Tiveragh from that day to this. 
By H. Brown

Source: Art Ward, Causeway Coastal Route 

Did you know?

•    Cushendall translates to 'Foot of the Dall' which forms from the Glenann and Glenballyemon rivers. 
•    In 1924, Cushendall became one of the first villages in Ireland to have street lighting designed by local miller  Anthony O’Connor.
•    Cushendall once held eight fair days during the year and that tradition is kept alive today through the 'Heart of the Glens' festival which takes place over ten days each August. 

Altarichard, Near Ballymoney

This windswept land is the scene for the epic tales of the McDonnell clan. 

Sorley Boy McDonnell
Sorely Boy Mc Donnell, arguably the famous chieftain of the Mc Donnell clan was born in 1505.  He died aged 85, a remarkable age for the turbulent times. He led the struggle between Mc Donnell clan, the MacQuillan's and the O’Neills. Shane O'Neill defeated Sorley Boy near Coleraine in 1564 and in 1565 after another epic battle James MacDonnell and Sorley Boy were taken prisoners. Sorley Boy remained captive until 1567, following the murder of Shane. In 1575, Sorley, following increasing hostilities with the English, sent his family to Raghery (Rathlin Island) for what he thought was safety. Raghery was attacked by Lord Essex with four frigates under the command of  Francis Drake, killing over 600 of the clan. Sorley Boy retaliated by invading Carrickfergus Castle, took all the cattle and corn and re-established his power and authority in the Glens  and the Route.. The decisive battle for Sorley Boy McDonnell was the Battle of Aura in 1583 where he defeated the O'Neills, MacQuillan and an English force sent from Dublin. In 1586 Sorley negotiated an agreement  with the English government and obtained a grant to himself and his heirs of all the Route between the rivers Bann and Bush. He was made Constable of Dunluce Castle and remained there in peace for the rest of his life. Sorley Boy  is buried  in Bonamargie Friary, near Ballycastle. 

Age old skill of peat cutting 
The ancient tradition and crafts of peat cutting hat have been prevalent in rural Northern Ireland for hundreds of years.  Peat bogs or peatlands were formed around 12,000 years ago.  Peat is made from decaying organic materials which often preserves ancient artefacts and historical relics. Once the peat has been cut, it is  known as turf, and was a  vital fuel source. The evocative smell of a turf fire would have been commonplace in this area.  Peat cutting took place from May to August every year and involved every member of the family,
The release of carbon dioxide and methane gas that occurs when peat is either burned or thawed has reduced the popularity of peat as a fuel source and the closure of many of the old peat bogs. 

Did You Know?
 
•    Each year, families would negotiate the rental of a bank, or a small portion of bogland to be used for turf cutting each summer. The size of bank was dictated by the size of the family and was very carefully measured and protected. 
  

Camus, Near Coleraine

Camus Old Church
Camus Old Church and graveyard stands on the site of a significant monastic settlement founded 580 AD by Abbott Comgall of Bangor, later to become a saint. This early Celtic / Christian site had close links to the settlements of Mountsandal and Dun Ceithern (The Sconce) near Articlave. Like many ancient church sites, it has numerous yew trees and an intriguing atmosphere.  Today nothing remains of the old monastery though it is recorded that the ruins were used to build the walls surrounding the graveyard. The site had commanding views of the river and the important ford of Camus. Last used by the Normans, this would have been a key strategic location as well as the main crossing point for travellers. It was guarded by two forts, the remains of one of these still stands at the Loughan on the other side of the River Bann.
A story tells of St Columba (Colmcille) stopping here to visit with  Abbott Comgall before crossing the river to Coleraine. He predicted that the spring water would run red with blood from a battle that would take place, several  battles occurred near the ford. The ancient church here was used  up until 1630 when during the Plantation of Ulster,  the Merchant Tailors, one of the London Guilds built a new church at Macosquin.  From then on Camus and Macosquin were one.  One artefact of the old church is the remains of its high cross dedicated to the memory of St. Comgall.

The Bulluan Stone
Beside a railed grave at the north end of the graveyard is a bullaun stone, the water of which is said to have magical properties and the stone never runs dry. These were used as fonts for baptism, this particular one was highly regarded and used as a place of pilgrimage until the late Victorian period.

Source: Art Ward, Causeway Coastal Route

Garvagh Forest

Modern Pyramid
A surprising sight in a mature forest, this Modern Pyramid was erected by Lord Garvagh c.1820-30. Situated on this elevated site, it is a strange edifice in a very peaceful setting.
Inspired by his Grand Tour of Egypt, Lord Garvagh originally intended it to be his final resting place. However, he died in France in 1840, so the pyramid remains unoccupied to this day. Every May,  the pyramid is swathed in a sea of pretty bluebells.
The pyramid is 18 feet square at the base and is erected on a raised platform 21 feet square; it is 21 feet high and is solidly built of ashlar stone, 

Did you know?

•    Garvagh hosts one of the largest annual vintage shows in Ireland, each September.
•    Garvagh Museum and Heritage Centre, located behind the Clock Tower, is home to a large collection of historical and cultural treasures and is the largest, private, rural folk Museum in Ireland.

Portneal, Kilrea

As we look through the frame at this picturesque 18th century bridge, we turn our minds  to the skills of the engineers of the time. A far cry from the then horse drawn  transport, to the juggernauts of today. The bridge linking  the counties of Londonderry and Antrim encouraged trade and, maybe, romance. 
When in the area why not take the short journey into the town of Kilrea and view an excellent example of a 17th century  Plantation town, originally developed by The Mercers Company of London, or make the short trip to Portna with its locks, canal, flood gates and the eel fisheries.  Where could  be nicer for a relaxing stroll and, who knows, you may spot a kingfisher or an otter? In this tranquil location leave time to have a chat with the local anglers, where the craic is good and they will always tell you about the one that got away!  

Source: Tommy Collins, Local Tour Guide

Tunnel Brae, Castlerock

This area has been habited since the first hunter-gathers made their way up the River Bann and settled at Mount Sandal some 9000 years ago. Evidence of Mesolithic and bronze age settlements have been found in the dune systems on either side of the Barmouth. 

Derry~Londonderry – Coleraine Railway Line 
The railway line opened between Derry~Londonderry and Coleraine in 1853.  Owned and run by the Coleraine and Londonderry Railway Company, it was a  major engineering achievement due to the construction of two tunnels cut through two headlands which takes the line from Castlerock to Downhill. 
The opening of the railway saw Castlerock develop as a seaside resort, partly due to a scheme which offered free first-class rail travel to anyone who would build a villa here. 

Today, this railway journey is highly regarded as one of the best in Europe as it hugs the coast and estuary to Londonderry. Both Michael Palin and Michael Portillo have featured the railway journey on their shows. 

Did you know?

•    The name Castlerock derives from a black basalt outcrop situated close to the shore.
•    Castlerock Railway Station was designed by John Lanyon, the son of Charles Lanyon who designed many iconic buildings such as Queens University and the Custom House in Belfast and the Glendun Viaduct. 
•    C.S. Lewis, spent his  summer holidays as a young boy in Castlerock with his brother Warren and parents. He would explore the pathways that lead to Downhill Castle and the Lion's Gate and play in the rock pools, all of these childhood experiences left an indelible impression in his imagination which later found their way into his writings. The magical seashore in Prince Caspian echoes the childhood days and tidal pools, Aslan the great lion from the Lions Gate at Downhill 

Downhill Demesne, and Mussenden Temple
Go up Tunnels Brae and follow the path to the dominant and intriguing ruin of Downhill Demesne, one of the most noted houses in Ireland.  The house was built as a country home for Frederick Augustus Hervey, the Bishop of Derry and 4th Earl of Bristol between 1775–85. The estate included  over 150 acres of landscaped gardens and walks Mussenden Temple, the Mausoleum and Lions Gate. Muusenden Temple and Demesne is now owned by The National Trust.
 Mussenden Temple is modelled on the Temple of Vesta at Tivoli in Italy and was built after the Earl Bishop tried to buy the original Temple of Vesta which he planned to dismantle and rebuild at Downhill. This was turned down by the Vatican, so he had his own built from scratch as a library overlooking Downhill beach. Mussenden Temple was named in dedication to the Earl Bishops cousin Frideswide Bruce, wife of Daniel Mussenden whom he was very fond of.
Source: Art Ward Causeway Coastal Route

Hezlett House
Where the road to Castlerock meets the main Causeway Coastal Route,  is Hezlett House which was built in 1690 and is the oldest building in the area. It was originally the rectory for nearby St. Paul’s Church in Articlave.  It is unique in being built without a foundation around a frame of curved timbers known as ‘crucks’. The building passed to the Hezlett family after a new rectory was built in 1774. It I s now owned by the National Trust.

Did you know?

•    Downhill Castle housed a large and priceless collection of art, including works by Rubens, Caravaggio, Tintoretto, Titian, Raphael and Rembrandt. Shipped from Italy and his travels across Europe, the Earl Bishop was a great patron to the arts. 
•    Castlerock, Articlave and Downhill are all in the Parish of Dunboe, an area steeped in history.  The name means 'Fort of the Cow'. It is said that in the reign of King Art, there was a famine and that a cow called Glasgavlin was stolen from Ballynascreen and tethered to a rock at Downhill known as 'The Tether Rock'. She is said to have saved the lives of the people with a constant supply of milk.

Source: Art Ward, Causeway Coastal Route

  
Swann’s Bridge, near Magilligan

The Broighter Gold 
The Broighter Gold is a hoard of gold artifacts from the Iron Age of the 1st century BC, found in 1896 in a field close by Broglasco Farm. The hoard included a 7-inch-long (18 cm) gold boat, a gold torc and bowl and other jewellery. The remarkable Broighter hoard, arguably the finest treasure trove of the Irish Iron Age, was discovered on a February evening in 1896 by two Derry men, Thomas Nicholl and James Morrow. They had been ploughing a stubble field adjacent to the shoreline of Lough Foyle when they suddenly hit something hard. On investigation they discovered a number of metal items ‘arranged inside one another’. Curious to see what these dirt encrusted objects were, they brought them home where they were washed over an open sink by the future Mrs. Nicholl (she was then the maid). Unaware that that the dirty objects were made of gold she later admitted that it was possible that some smaller pieces may have washed down the drain! The collection is now part of the National Museum in Dublin.
The nautical nature of some of the finds from the hoard and its location beside the sea, has led to some speculation that it represents a votive offering to an underwater deity, possibly Manannán mac Lir. In legend this ancient Irish sea god is associated with Lough Foyle, a large cauldron, sailing ships and a magical horse capable of journeying over land and sea 
The 3000 year old ornaments were traded for quite small sums and luckily ended up in the British Museum. Later they became the subject of the famous "Gold Ornament Trial", during which it was demonstrated that these objects had been deliberately buried and were therefore treasure trove. The British Museum  asserted that Broighter had been below sea level at the time of the crime, and that the treasure had been thrown overboard from a ship as an offering to the gods. 
Mr. Justice Farwell stated in his judgement:
"The court has been asked to assume the existence of a votive offering of a sort hitherto unknown, in a land where such offerings were unknown, in a sea not known to have existed, to a sea god by a chieftain both equally unknown."  
Source: various 

The Foyle Base Line
As we look Westward through the frame towards the flat lands of the Foyle Estuary let our minds  take us back to 1826 and picture Royal Engineer surveyors under the command of Major General Thomas Colby working in the fields. Surely the locals would have been wondering what  impending invasion was about to happen. They were constructing a bimetallic beam some 8miles long stretching from Ballykelly to the coast which would be the trigonomical baseline for the first large scale mapping of Ireland. This survey of the entire country to a scale of 6 inches to I mile  was commissioned by Irish Ordnance survey  and was completed by 1846.To preserve the site of the Base Line, Towers along its route  were constructed. The South base tower is situated adjacent to Kings Lane Estate in Ballykelly and is easily accessible, there is one on private land in the town land of Minearny and the North Base is on private land near Magilligan. There was a fourth Tower at Mount Sandy but unfortunately fell to the enemy, the ocean 
Source: Tommy Collins, Local Tour Guide

The Blind Harpist
This  area has a long association with music. One of Ireland's great 17th century harpists, Denis Hampsey grew up near here in Magilligan. Denis contracted smallpox and lost his sight at the age of three, yet lived to the ripe old age of 112. The Blind Harpist was the rockstar of his day, travelling widely to perform. In 1745 he played for Bonny Prince Charles in Edinburgh.  Because of his age, Denis created a living musical link from the ancient to the modern, he played in the old style with long fingernails, his passion for music rose above religious, class and political division. The harp he once played is now exhibited in the Guinness Brewery, Dublin. He is buried in St.Aidan’s Church at the foot of Binevenagh. 
Source: Art Ward, Causeway Coastal Route

Gortmore Viewpoint
To view Magilligan from above, follow the Binevenagh Scenic Drive along Bishop’s Road to Gortmore Viewpoint on the plateau where the views here are truly breathtaking.  On a clear day views extend across to Donegal and the islands of Islay and Jura off the west coast of Scotland. Picnic facilities are available. Gortmore is home to the iconic sculpture of Manannan Mac Lir, a sea god

Did You know?

•    When the baselining work of Major General Thomas Colby was remeasured in 1960 using electronic equipment  the new measurements differed from Major Colby's by only 1 inch.
•    A certain Harry Ferguson of Massey Ferguson Tractors could often been seen  on Magilligan beach test flying  a monoplane he had developed in 1911. 

Burnfoot, Dungiven

O’Cahans Tomb
O'Cahan's tomb is inside the chancel of  Dungiven Priory and is  one of the most unique grave monuments in Northern Ireland.
The magnificent tomb contains a sculpture of an armed man lying under a canopy of open work tracery. The body is covered by a sword. Below him are six niches containing the small figures of armed warriors wearing kilts. It is reputed to be the tomb of Cooey-na-Gall O'Cahan, who died in 1385. 'Cooey-na-Gall' means "Terror of the Stranger."

Source: Art Ward, Causeway Coastal Route